Showing posts with label swell. Show all posts
Showing posts with label swell. Show all posts

Friday, February 8, 2019

2/8/19 Report - Adding Another Variable. The Effect of Wave Period. Bigger Surf Sunday.


Written by the TreasureGuide for the exclusive use of treasurebeachesreport.blogspot.com.
Souce: See MagisSeaWeed link below.

As I said yesterday, my first blogging did not involve treasure hunting.  In fact what makes my approach to metal detecting a little different is my old school scientific approach.. My professional life began as an academic and researcher, and I approach most everything still today with the same empirical scientific attitude.  You won't find any scientist worth anything making wild claims without a lot of good data and logic to support his conclusions, or at least making it clear when he doesn't have much data.  By nature and training I am still very much a scientist at heart.

If you've been reading this blog very long, you know that I've spent a good deal of time talking about erosion and how items get distributed on a beach.  My conclusions are based upon both observation and experiment.  I've reported on some of my experiments in the past.  While I feel like I have a pretty good understanding of many of the processes involved, there are still some unknowns, especially having to do with what takes place in front of the beach during rough surf.  That is difficult to observe.

One of the things that I've pretty much neglected up to this point is the effect of the wave period.  I've been told before by an oceanographer who reads this blog when the topic is erosion, that wave period is important, but I haven't studied that or considered it in any serious way.  Fortunately I just discovered an article on the topic that I'm sure will help.

At the top of this post you'll see an illustration of a longer period wave and a shorter period wave.
It shows how a longer period wave will affect the bottom in deeper water than a wave that has a shorter period.

One way I've made use of the circular nature of the particles under the wave is by lifting my feet as a wave passes so that it drops me back in the same spot.  I've described that method of working rough water in the past.

A wave is also affected by the bottom.  It is the bottom that causes the wave to change shape and break.

Here is the beginning of the article I'm talking about.

Size matters – we all know that. But when we are talking about swell, the period matters almost just as much.

The last few big swells in the North Atlantic have arrived with periods of up to 19 or 20 secs, which is pretty long for this part of the world. The long periods gave the waves an extra punch at many places, and, at some spots, a lot more size than you would normally expect...


Here is the link if you want to read the entire article. 

https://magicseaweed.com/news/swell-period-what-is-it-and-why-does-it-matter/10930/

Even though somebody mentioned to me years ago about the importance of wave period relative to erosion, I didn't look into it much.  We always talk about the tides, surf height, and angles, but now I hope to be adding another factor.  This article gives some very helpful information, and I'm sure I will be able to fill in some of the gaps in my understanding as I study it more.

One important thing is where the waves break.  Often they break in front of the beach on a sand bar, just churning up sand and anything else that might be near the surface.  If you follow the surfers, I think they'll be hunting waves that are breaking out some.

I'm glad I found that article and will undoubtedly be revisiting the topic in the future as I add to my understanding.

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Source: MagicSeaWeed.com

As you can see, the peak surf of up to seven feet is still predicted for Sunday.

It looks like the tides will be  moderate and the wind mostly southerly.  The wave period is going to be about 6 seconds.


Thanks for all the get-well wishes.  I'm better now.


Happy hunting,
TreasureGuide@comcast.net




Tuesday, November 7, 2017

11/7/17 Report - Turtle Trail Beaches. Note and Surprise in Bottle. Bigger Surf for Weekend.


Written by the TreasureGuide for he exclusive use of treasurebeachesreport.blogspot.com.

South of Turtle Trail Access Yesterday
Photo by Darrel S.
 Darrel S. has been on the Treasure Coast detecting lately, and has been kind enough to send in beach photos and reports.  I especially appreciate that since I haven't been out to inspect the beaches for myself much lately.  Thanks Darrel!

Darrel sent the above and three photos below along with the following message.

Darrel said,  I did not get a hit until I got to the 3rd and 4th flag pole. Found a large lock.
Some aluminum. No coins or iron junk.  Very clean. Some of the bags were exposed near first pole. Low was at 3:30pm...


Bit of Erosion Control Bag South of Turtle Trail Access.

South of Turtle Trail Access Yesterday.

South of Turtle Trail Access Yesterday.

I've been going to mention that they are showing the Curse of Oak Island TV shows again, and also Gold Rush is airing again.  I was going to mention that a couple of days ago, but forgot.  Darrel reminded me of that when he commented on the Oak Island show.

He said, I watched the 4 hour summary of last season of Oak Island. I have not seen any of the past season. I disagree with the lady claiming the spike Gary found is from 16th century. The spikes used for the planks, etc., were not that thick or square like the one found. The spike may have been used on shoring or early structure that may have been on the island. Wondered if she or any of those people been in a wreck or really seen an actual wreck in restoration, etc.

If they could find an actual campsite or wreck offshore would help. They said a ship was placed between the shorings and water to hide any evidence of that ship explaining the long plank and spike found.

Those of you who have been reading this blog for some time might recall that I posted a discussion of that spike after the episode originally aired. Most people thought it was a railroad spike.

Here is a hilarious thread about the spike.

https://www.reddit.com/r/OakIsland/comments/5kp0lq/im_99_sure_that_is_a_railroad_spike_they_found/

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We are all saddened by the recent church shooting.  It reminded me of the Waco siege in 1993 when the FBI and ATF launched and assault on the Branch Davidian compound leading to a fire that killed 76 people, including women and children.  That of course occurred after Ruby Ridge sniper shooting of a civilian, the combined disasters leading to an investigation and report all involved agencies.

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If you've done much beach detecting you may have found cremation tags or objects memorializing someone deceased. I've shown some of those in the past.  Here is a recent story about something like that.

PALM COAST, Fla. - A Rhode Island woman says her message in a bottle was found on a Central Florida beach four years after she sent it to sea.

Athina McAleer, of Charlestown, told WJAR-TV she put her mother's ashes in a bottle along with a story about the woman after she died of cancer. McAleer says her fiance released the bottle in Georges Bank in 2013.

The bottle wound up in Palm Coast, where Stephanie Winnek says she found it Friday on the beach...


Interesting that a bottle put in at Rhode Island ended up at Palm Coast.

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Looks like we might have some better hunting this weekend.  The surf is supposed to go up to something like six to nine feet.  On top of that, the swells are predicted to have a bit of a northerly direction.  That predication is still days off, so we'll have to see if it really happens.

Source: Magic Seaweed.com.

Happy hunting,
TreasureGuide@comcast.net